Sunday, February 07, 2010

I Think I'm Turning Japanese!

For New Years I needed, well, something New. Korea is no longer foreign. It's home. I needed to feel the unfamiliar again.

So I took a quick trip to Japan.

I was supposed to be at work. All the Koreans were on vacation but us dirty foreigners are required to sit at school and look busy all day. They were nice enough to send someone everyday to have me sign an attendance sheet. So, other than a few random administrative people, my school was a ghost town.

So I had to choose. Stay at school and get paid to take a nap OR turn off my cell phone, don't show up at all, hop a ferry to Japan for a long weekend and get thoroughly bitched out and have my pay docked when I got back. Hmmm, follow the rules or go on a little adventure. I choose (and always will) the latter!


So three friends and I set sail for Japan! Having heard rumors of how expensive Japan can be, we decided to not travel far and stay relatively close to Korea. So we arrived in Fukoka and ventured off to Hiroshima.





It was amazing how totally and utterly lost I was in Japan. In Korea, even though I have no idea what is happening around me, I can't speak and hardly understand the language, it's a familiar inability to communicate. In Japan, it was starting over. All the little things were complicated again, like not knowing what a taxi is called or what hand gesture you use to hail one.... and none of us knew which side of the car to get in... never thought about the Japanese driving on the left!!

I only know a few words in Japanese: kon'nichiwa (hello) and domo arigato (thank you very much). The latter of which I could neither hear nor say without immediately making little robot arms and mumbling "... Mr. Roboto" under my breath!! It was definitely instant culture shock when we got to Japan... and it was fantastic!!

Hiroshima is a beautiful city, almost poetically so. It was such a (literal) breath of fresh air to be in such a clean, modern city, with wide roads and nice buildings... then you'd remember why Hiroshima is so new and the horror and atrocities responsible for it's new young appearance made your heart ache. You (as an American) almost felt compelled to walk around an apologize to everyone you saw.


Most places were closed on New Years so we spent New Years Day bonding. And how else do you bond with your friends other than strip down naked in public and spend several hours outside in the frigid weather, lounging in hot springs. None of us are particularly modest girls... but there was that first awkward moment when standing in the locker room in your underwear where you decide to count to 3 and everyone strips together and everyone just hurry up and look so we don't have to feel weird anymore. Though, you quickly forget you (and the hundred other women) are naked and we just had a blast at the bath house!!

We then ventured down to Miyajima which was by far the best part of the trip. I wish we had known what an amazing little island it was so we could have spent more time there. Miyajima is famous for it's Torri Gate especially during high tide when it appears to be floating on water. Of course, it was low tide when we were there. Though it was actually really incredible to be able to walk up to the gate (if you are willing to get muddy and seaweedy).


Then there was the food!!! Oh, Japan! How happy you made my taste buds! I had forgotten how delicious food could taste! It was amazing! Unlike my current culinary conundrum, there is more than one flavor in Japan.... there were thousands! Every meal made me giddy with delight!

It didn't take long to get on an "I hate Korea" kick. I loved everything about Japan! The food, the cleanliness and order, the sleeping arrangements (both countries sleep on the floor, but Koreans sleep on a flat blanket and the Japanese lay out a futon and a duvet!), the people (the Japanese were so cool! Overall Koreans are pretty vanilla. Everyone has the same haircut, their natural color or dyed a slightly brownish color, clothes are frumpy and dull, and self expression is non-existent. The Japanese are awesome. Everyone has crazy dyed hair, punk clothes, and a personal style that is solely Japanese. It's far more fashion forward and self expressive than anything I've seen in the States.) I loved everything about Japan.

I was around Architecture again! Oh creativity and expression... I've missed you! Every building was unique and definitively Japanese, both old and new. Modern Japanese architecture is personally my favorite aesthetic. Korean architecture is, well honestly, non-existent. They have lots and lots of temples, but they are all the same. If you've seen one, you've pretty much seen them all. Modern architecture in Korea consists of condo buildings... Always rectangular, always windows on one side only, always painted tan or off-white... now repeat 10 million times!


We finished our trip with a quick late night visit to Hiroshima Castle then a train ride back to Fukoka to catch our ferry.



My Korea hating quickly went away while buying the train ticket. A one hour train ride on the bullet train costs roughly $100. For that much money, you can take Korea's high speed train from the northern to southern tip of the country... TWICE and still have enough money left over for lunch and a cab ride back to your apartment! They weren't kidding when they said Japan was expensive! Sheesh! Now I remember why I picked Korea in the first place... because it's cheaper than Japan!

We got to Fukoka at midnight and had 7 hours to kill before our ferry back to Korea. We wandered the streets for a solid 3 hours, found a 24 place to eat and loitered there for a good 2 and a half and finally decided to just go to the ferry terminal. Too bad it was still closed and in an isolated part of town. Nothing tops off a great vacation like napping in sub-freezing temperatures, like a homeless person, in front of a public building.


And my school never did notice I didn't show up to work, so I got paid to go to Japan!!

Monday, January 25, 2010

Who's On Hana?

Here is why Korea is confusing:

BB: When is the last day of class?
Koreans: Dec. 23
BB: That's the last day??
K: Yes.
BB: When does the new school year start?
K: March 1
BB: March? Same as last year.
K: Yes
BB: So last class Dec 23, next class March 1???
K: Yes.
BB: And I have camps in Jan ?
K: Yes
BB: and nothing in Feb?
K: No
BB: What is in Feb?
K: class
BB: huh?
K: classes in Feb
BB: more camps?
K: no, real school
BB: last day dec 23?
K: yes
BB: frist day march 1?
K: Yes
BB: sooooo.... no class in feb?
K: No.
..... AAAAHHHHH I give up!!!

It's like Abbot and Costello except in broken Engrishee!!!

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

I Would Have Missed It...

When I'm traveling I always want the window seat. I can sleep anywhere but rarely do I sleep in cars, buses or trains.

One reason I love to travel is because I want to see everything. The main attractions, the back roads, the big cities, the small farms, the good, the bad and the ugly. I never want to sleep when traveling because I feel like I'll miss something. That as soon as my eyes are closed, something breathtaking will slip by me and an opportunity to see something amazing will be lost forever. Rarely has this ever really been the case.

Until Korea.

It was March or April of this year and I was going to Gyeongju (about 45 min from my town) to visit Lindsey and Jeff. I had only been on the train a few minutes and was in my comfy window seat position: ipod on, seat reclined, foot rest up (Korean trains are incredibly comfortable) and elbow against the window, bracing my head as I stared aimlessly at the passing scenery, which was finally starting to change from brown to green. Then, out of no where, I saw it. Just for a second. A giant golden Buddha statue, towering over the tree tops, sparkled in the spring light like a giant golden beacon. Then just as quickly as I saw it, it disappeared.

What the??? What was that? Where are we?


I think we are still close to my town! I could have missed it!!!!


For months and months I've been meaning to find that temple. Not really knowing what to search for, I finally googled: Giant golden Buddha Yeongcheon and an article about "Manbulsa" came up. I searched for Manbulsa and found their website. A few weeks ago I finally made it to this temple. (It only took me until December!) Warwick came with me.

We went in the late afternoon so by the time we made it to the top of the hill, where the Amitabha Buddha or Big Buddha was, the sun was setting on him in the most beautiful way. The Amitabha is over 30 meters tall which is almost 10 stories high! Even in the pictures it loses its enormity since the scale is lost unless you are standing directly under it.


Me in front of Amitabha Buddha. The scale is somewhat lost in this picture. When next to it, I am
shorter than the stone wall in the background!!!!



Inside the main temple





Nirvana Buddha




Warwick getting some sunset pictures

the graveyard and tombstones at the temple

Tuesday, December 01, 2009

A Rose By Any Other Name...

Yesterday, Kim Dong-Uk informed me that our last day of school is 3 weeks away. While I couldn't be more thrilled, I am starting to get sentimental. I'm actually going to really miss these kids.

As I looked around my classrooms today I saw so many familiar little faces... but very few familiar names!

With 45% of Koreans having the last name of "Kim" "Lee" or "Park", and just about every kid has "Min, Ming, or Yeong" somewhere in their name. So, trying to remember 800 little Kim Yeong-Su, Park Min-Jung, Lee Ming-Na, Kim Min-Ju, Park Yeong-Jin, Park Min-Na, Lee Yeong-Ju, and every other possible combination was clearly impossible from day one.

My elementary school students never made English names of their own and even if they had, with 800 different kids a week, I'd still hardly recognize most of them.
 
There are a select handful of students that stand out, for various reasons, and I took it upon myself to give them nicknames... though, only in my head. Here are a few of my favorites:


Lollipop 1 and 2: See previous post.









Pringles: She fed me Pringles and chocolate for an entire hour on the way to our field trip in April. Girl sure knows how to win the teacher's affection!








Jazz Hands: Flamboyant chubby kid who loves to sing and is the only one to ever volunteer to act anything out. I love him.










Sunshine & Kirsten: Sunshine purely because she is one of those kids that lights up your day and Kirsten, for no reason in particular, she reminds me 
of a cousin of mine.




Jesus: Probably one of the top 5 most annoying kids
on the planet. Every time I'm around him all that goes through my head is "Jesus.... kill me now!!!" This kid has the uncanny ability to yell "Teacher teacher teacher teacher" for 40 minutes straight while jumping in his chair, crawling under desks, or running in circles. And he just happens to be the smartest kid I teach. He also lives in my building and recites my address in English every time I pass by him... weirdo.


Pixie: She's half the weight and a head shorter than
 every other student her age, so is her little sister. She has the squeakiest little voice and she is absolutely beautiful.  She looks like she belongs in a fairy tale. 




Shit for brains: This name has nothing to do with his intelligence but rather this incident: 










Ms. President: Every kid in her class had their picture on the wall and under it was written what they want to be when they grow up. All the girls said "I want to be a Pop-star or mother." All the boys said, "I want to be a Pop-star or Soccer player"... except for her. She said, "I WILL be President."

We Represent...

So, there are two little boys in one of my fourth grade classes that I've affectionately nicknamed, "the lollipop guild" though no real resemblance to the Wizard of Oz characters.

They get their nickname from their overall appearance. They look like two little lollipops. Enormous heads, plus a bushel of thick back hair, on little bodies that are no more than 1/2 the width of those domes of theirs. And they are both about a foot shorter than any other student in class.

If that was it I would just call them lollipops. But they come as a team, hence the guild. They are attached at the hip. Always together. Actually, a little too together. Always sitting on each others laps, giving each other back rubs, they sit next to each other and usually have their arms around each other as they work, and sometimes they are practically dry humping each other.

Seeing these two boys interact each week has made me aware of and intensely frustrated by part of my American heritage and culture that apparently has been ingrained into my psyche:

I immediately think these boys are gay.

But, they don't have "gay" here in Korea.

I remember the Iranian president,
Ahmadinejad, once saying they don't have gay people in Iran. I remember thinking, "what a jackass". Well Korea is also one of those "there are no gay people here" countries. At first I was immensely annoyed by the blatant disregard and omittance of gay individuals here. Though, now, my feelings toward their head-in-the-sand approach to homosexuality has changed somewhat.

When I was teaching at an all boys middle school I very quickly noticed, on the very first day, that the boys were incredibly affectionate with each other. Though, they were also constantly punching, kicking, tackling each other, I'd also see them resting their heads on a friends shoulder if they were tired, arms wrapped around each other to brace themselves on the bus, and rubbing a friends shoulders after judo class. It didn't take long to realize that even though this "no gays in Korea" mentality has a plethora of negative consequences, there was one very good outcome: No homophobia. None.

In America, we make concrete gender lines from birth. Actually, we make them
pre-natal. You are born as a pink or a blue. Little boys wear blue clothes and play with trucks and guns. If a boy puts on something pink, or god forbid, picks up a doll, he is immediately stamped as "gay". Fathers try their damnedest to prevent anyone from thinking their boy might grow up to be gay and will try to make them Über masculine. "Boys don't cry" "don't be a sissy" "Shake it off" etc is pummeled into little boy brains.  Toddlers that can barely string together a cohesive sentence know what is culturally acceptable based on their gender. Go to a 3 year-old's birthday party and give out pink and blue party favors, if the only favor left is a pink one, do you think that little boy isn't going to break down in tears???

I'm about as for gay rights as they come. I don't care what your sexuality is and honestly I don't want to hear about your sex life no matter what your preference, whether you're gay, straight, bi,
transsexual, a-sexual, or into extra-terrestrials. I don't care.

Now that I've been here 9 months I think back to when I got here and how I thought Korea really needed to reevaluate it's attitude towards homosexuality. Now I'm starting to think that it's me, and my entire American culture, who needs to reevaluate the thinking process behind what is actually normal affectionate human interaction...  though, seriously kid, stop dry humping your friend's leg!

Wednesday, November 04, 2009

I Feel Like Shit Too, Kid!

Yesterday, it was time for my after school class and in walks my most frustrating student. He was early.

He's really not a bad kid (some of them really are) he's just legitimately hyperactive. His mind and his body are all over the place. (For the first 15 min of class he stabbed 3 rocks with scissors. Though, he gave me the rocks as a gift after class.)

This kid just has a fire in his eyes, you can see that he's actually a pretty good student, if you can just reel him in... which is easier said than done when you don't speak his language. He and I have come a long way lately. We are finally used to each other and I'm starting to see a lot of progress... anyway...

He walks in and instead of immediately muttering obscenities at him (no need to do it under my breath here, he can't understand me) I instead decide to greet him.

Brit: "Hello, how are you?"
Kid: ...???...   (blank stare, I swear I can hear crickets)
Brit: (I try again. 37 weeks of the same thing... he should know this by now) "How... are... you? Happy? (I point to my big cheesy grin) Sad? (now I pretend to cry) Angry?" (I start growling at him and shaking my head)
Kid: (he starts stomping and flailing his arms while growling and shaking his head wildly)
Brit: "You're angry?"
Kid: (Jumps up and down nodding)
Brit: "Why?"
Kid: (Wraps his arms around his stomach and bends over moaning)
Brit: "You are sick?" (Makes sense, everyone is out with some flu or cold)
Kid: (Again jumps up and down while nodding)
Brit: "Oh, that's too bad. (a vocabulary phrase he should know) You have a stomach ache? "  ( I point to my stomach)
Kid: "No, teacher...." he actually says and takes the marker out of my hand and starts to draw on the marker board.

I'm intrigued and stand there while he draws his ailment on the board only to burst out into laughter when I realize he drew a big pile of crap!!!

Brit: (still laughing) "Oh, no!"
Kid: (laughing while holding his stomach and moaning in agony) "Oooh no, teacher...."

We both stood there laughing while the rest of the class showed up. He was actually really good in class... once he stopped stabbing those rocks.

Friday, October 23, 2009

I'll Plan Ahead

...So that the next time, when I meet a guy in a bar, and he asks me out for coffee the next day, the only clean clothes I have won't be a t-shirt that says,

 "Cheap and cute but you get what you pay for."
Hmm.... 

Well, he should consider it fair warning!

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Global Shopping Spree

In a conversation with my sister last night, I was reminded of just how different we truly are.

The topic of "china" entered the conversation. My mind immediately envisioned strapping on my backpack and trekking The Great Wall, hopping on and off crowded trains and sampling the unique culture and food

She was thinking more along the lines of picking up a laser scanner and trekking through Macy's trying to dodge the crowds while searching for the perfect pattern of Wedgwood on which to serve food.
If you are reading this, then I'm impressed... you just did a whole lot of reading!!